Getting Your Head Around The Greyhounds

| December 18, 2018 | Reply

Two recent reviews which have delivered good returns to flat one-point stakes are RL Rated Racing and One Bet Racing and both are worth a look.

I’ll be busy over the festive period continuing to update the ongoing reviews and bringing you a first look at Top Mark, Star Horse Tips and Free Footy Tips VIP. So when you’ve had enough turkey, mince pies and charades why not keep up with all the reviews here.

The launch date for the hugely improved and expanded Tipster League is now just two weeks away! From 1st January 2019 the new service will be known as Tipstars and will benefit from its own website and a whole host of new features and benefits.

If you haven’t taken a look at the existing version yet, then head over to this page (although this is now a mere shadow of what we’ve got coming in January!).

You can also follow me on Twitter @betwithchris for regular updates and more news on these exciting developments.

Chris

Greyhound Racing – The Basics

As I promised at the end of the last article, today I’m going to give you an introduction to greyhound racing from a betting perspective.

Several people have contacted me off the back of the last article saying they had taken a look at greyhound racing for the first time and found elements of the race card a bit confusing, well the good news is that this is all covered below.

With so many races each day the first objective will be to identify the races you are going to concentrate on…

There are two types of races – graded and open.

Graded races are for dogs that run at their “home” track and are assessed on their performance, a bit like handicapping in horse racing. There are 11 graded levels (with 1 being the highest) and dogs are moved up and down the grades depending on performance – this ensures that graded races are contested by dogs with similar ability.

Open races, as the name suggests, are open for any dogs to enter but tend to attract the best dogs.

You will see the race grade is preceded by a letter and this identifies the type of race…

“A” is a standard race, “D” is a sprint, “S” is a staying race, “M” is a marathon and “H” is a hurdles race. As with the trip in horse racing, certain distances will tend to suit certain dogs.

One of the key pieces of information on the race card is the letter in brackets after the dog’s name…

An (M) indicates that the dog is a middle runner, while a (W) indicates a wide runner. If there is no letter then the dog is a railer and tends to stick to the inside of the track.

The trap allocated to each dog takes account of their running style with railers in traps one and two, middle runners in three and four and the wide runners on the outside in traps five and six. Depending on the entries in a race you may get a middle runner in trap two for example if there is only one railer in the race.

So, how do you read the information under each dog on the race card and why is it important?

Reading from the left we have the date of previous runs, the race distance and the trap they ran from. Then comes the first crucial piece of information…

This is the split time, the time it took the greyhound to cross the winning line the first time round. It indicates the greyhound’s early pace and gives you a clue as to the chances of that greyhound leading the race.

This is followed by their split positions. In a standard four-bend race, this is usually the greyhound’s position at each of the four bends. The clue here is whether the dog was finishing fast or dropping away as the race progressed.

After their final finishing position, we get the distance they won by or finished behind the winner and the name of the winning dog for that race, or the dog that finished second if the dog we are looking at won the race.

The next column is the remarks for the run…

Now the example above is actually quite clear as it is written in a longer form than is often the case. Some race cards use many more abbreviations and so you can end up with a remark that says something like Crd1,Bmp&Fcd-Ck3/4.

Although this may look confusing at first glance, once you recognise the abbreviations it becomes quite easy to decipher. I have included a list of the common race card abbreviations at the end of this article for your reference.

After the remarks you will see the winning time for the race and also the going.

N is normal and any variation from that is shown as either a positive or negative number depending on whether the track was running faster or slower than standard.

The next piece of information is easily overlooked when considering how a race will pan out, but the weight of the greyhound in kilos can play a part…

For example, if two greyhounds drawn next to each other weigh 32 and 25 kilos respectively then any contact at the first bend is likely to have a bigger impact on the lighter dog. A dog must be within one kilo of its previous racing weight otherwise it is not allowed to run.

After the predicted SP and the class of race comes the final piece of crucial information. This is the calculated time and it is calculated as follows:

The winning time is first adjusted by any going factor. On the card above the winning time for the race on 12th November for example would be recalculated as 24.57 i.e. 24.77-0.20 (the 20 on the race card refers to 1/100ths of a second).

The calculated time for Burtonlodgeview is then calculated by the distance she finished behind the winner.

A quick bit of maths here for you! Each length is counted as eight clicks, where a click is 1/100th of a second. So in this example, Burtonlodgeview finished 3¾ lengths behind the winner Act Tres. This is 30 clicks (3.75 x 8) or 0.30 seconds, which gives a calculated time of 24.87 seconds.

The good news is you don’t have to do the maths, it’s done for you on the race card!

What is important is to understand that the calculated time not only provides a good guide to a dog’s relative performance, but also an indication as to whether they are an “improver” i.e. their times are getting consistently quicker.

Once you understand each element of the race card you can start to build a process for selecting the dogs to back.

Remember though that it will always be a combination of all of the factors covered above and it’s about finding the right permutation – if you find the dog that’s going to get a quick start and a clear run that’s great, but if it’s constantly getting nabbed on the line for stamina then pass it over and look for the next one!

While race cards will often list the most recent five or six runs for a dog, you can get their full history at www.greyhoundbet.racingpost.com.

If these last two articles have piqued your interest when it comes to making money from the dogs then I strongly recommend that you take a look at this.

Matt is currently running a ‘better than half price’ offer for Greyhound Wealth Secrets which is a comprehensive guide complete with free mini systems…

It’s also great value if you take the special offer, but you’ll have to be quick as it closes at midnight tomorrow!

Click here now to grab your copy.

I’ll be back between Christmas and New Year with an in depth look at the new Tipstars service, but until then can I take this opportunity to wish you all a very merry Christmas.

Best Wishes,

Chris Sowerby

Race Card Abbreviations

Aw – Away
Awk – Awkard
B – Badly
Bmp – Bumped
Brk – Break
ChL – Challenged
Clr – Clear
CmSg – Came Again
Crd – Crowded
Disp – Disputed
E – Early
EvCh – Every Chance
Fd – Faded
Fght – Fought
Imp – Impeded
Ld – Led
LN – Line
Lm – Lame
Msd – Missed
Nr – Near
Opcd – Outpaced
Q – Quick
Rls – Rails
RnIn – Run In
RnOn – Ran On
Rst – Rest
Sn – Soon
S – Slow
Stb stumbled
Stt – Start
Styd – Stayed
Th’out – Throughout

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